Scholars, Scones, Spires, and Stones: the Traveler’s Comprehensive Guide to Oxford

Introduction to Oxford

The following excerpt is from a poem titled Thrysis (1865) by Matthew Arnold, describing the city of Oxford:

Past the high wood, to where the elm-tree crowns
The hill behind whose ridge the sunset flames?
The signal-elm, that looks on Ilsley Downs,
The Vale, the three lone weirs, the youthful Thames?—
This winter-eve is warm,
Humid the air! leafless, yet soft as spring,
The tender purple spray on copse and briers!
And that sweet city with her dreaming spires,
She needs not June for beauty’s heightening

Poetry Foundation- “Thyrsis: A Monody, to Commemorate the Author’s Friend, Arthur Hugh Clough”

I have yet to find a more poetic and profound way than this excerpt to introduce Oxford! This summer, I participated in a five-week study abroad program alongside my peers from Salve Regina University. The program took place in Oxford, England and was hosted by St. Clares. During my time abroad, I have made valuable friendships and connections, I have challenged myself to exceed academically, and I have adopted something of a carpe diem philosophy, as I am becoming increasingly comfortable with stepping out of my comfort zone for an occasional spontaneous adventure. These past five weeks have also given me the time to thoroughly explore the city of Oxford. To prospective travelers, this city’s seemingly never-ending list of activities and must-try experiences might seem intimidating (and understandably so). This blog post is intended to offer a comprehensive guide to making the most out of a trip to Oxford.

Traveling safely and smartly

Health and safety

Before arriving in Oxford, consider the following health and safety tips that I found to be useful during my stay:

  • Use the buddy system: especially if you are a young woman, being surrounded by trusted individuals in a foreign country is a matter of safety and security. For example, if your phone dies, being in a group means that at least one person will still be able to use their phone in case of an emergency.
  • Mind your belongings: although nothing bad has happened to me or anyone in my group, it might be smart to keep your things in a smaller bag that zips up, preferably one that sits snugly on the front of your body. This way, you are less attractive as a target for theft.
  • Personal safety items: as pepper spray is illegal in the United Kingdom, consider keeping a whistle, a personal safety device (i.e., She’s Birdie Personal Safety Alarm), or a non-irritant dye spray.
  • Keep some medications handy: if you have allergies, make sure to bring or purchase antihistamines (i.e., fexofenadine, loratadine, or cetirizine). Hay fever is common during the UK’s warmer seasons with the heightened presence of pollen and other allergens. Also consider anti-nausea medication, sleep supplements for time differences, pain medications, and other medications that you feel you might need.

Logistics and comfort

When traveling to the UK, taking a few extra steps will result in extra comfort and efficiency during your stay. Consider the following:

  • Technology
    • Cellular data: the easiest way to have cellular data in a different country is to purchase an international data plan with your cell carrier. Most carriers have deals that reduce fees for extended stays and families.
    • Outlet adapter: the UK has different outlets and wattage than the US and the EU, so make sure to purchase a US to UK outlet adapter. Also, it might be best to leave your hair dryer at home, as most UK outlets cause American hair dryers to malfunction or stop working altogether.
    • Portable charger: part of traveling means spending long days out and about. To avoid a dead phone before returning to where you’re staying, consider purchasing a portable charger.
  • Documentation
    • Passport: this is your most important document. After arriving in the UK, you might want to carry around a photo copy and lock up your actual passport in a safe or lockbox where you’re staying. Some hotels offer to store passports for safe keeping.
    • Driver’s license or state ID (consider keeping a photo copy of these as well)
    • Physical boarding pass
  • Navigation
    • Research public transportation: Oxford has an amazing bus system that you’ll definitely want to use. It might also be worthwhile to keep a physical map of Oxford and to install a rideshare app.

Expanding your horizons: easy excursions

  1. London, United Kingdom (62.1 mi, 99.9 km from Oxford)

    As the bustling capital of the United Kingdom, London has something for everyone. In the months leading up to our trip to England, I hoped for an opportunity to visit London. I wanted to ride the tube, wander around the streets, and see the famous landmarks, so imagine my excitement when I found out that a London trip was included in our program! After a group visit to the British Museum, I rode the tube with a couple of friends to visit Primrose Hill: a district of London that I found to be walkable, clean, youthful, and full of shops and restaurants. For lunch, we sat in the park and ate New York-style bagels from “It’s Bagels”, which were absolutely delicious. The American menu gave us a taste of home and a sense of comfort. Afterwards, we had smoothies and visited the Paddington (2014) house before returning to our group’s meeting spot and traveling back to Oxford.
  2. Salisbury, United Kingdom (69.8 mi, 112.3 km from Oxford)

    Roughly an hour and 45 minutes away from Oxford by car or train, Salisbury is an excellent opportunity to see more of Southern England. The charming, walkable layout of the city invites visitors to explore without ever feeling lost. I especially enjoyed walking along the River Avon (right photo), before grabbing a bite to eat at the 14th-century restaurant called “The Haunch of Venison”, and then visiting Salisbury Cathedral. After leaving the cathedral, my friend and I decided to lay in the lawn outside and listen to baroque-era (1600-1750) classical music while basking in the sun. I happened to see a cloud in the sky which, coincidentally, was shaped like a conductor wearing a powdered wig and waving his baton. As we were listening to the music, I spent time reflecting on Salisbury Cathedral’s age. Today, baroque music is 275-425 years old. To people in the baroque era, such as English composers George Frideric Handel and Henry Purcell, Salisbury Cathedral was about 400 years old, meaning that they perceived the cathedral with a similar perspective to how we perceive the baroque era today. In addition to provoking thought about the passage of time, this realization also left me even more impressed with humans’ ability to create such wonders with limited technology.

Attractions

Sometimes, you just have to embrace looking like a tourist. The following locations in Oxford have been categorized into historical and natural attractions that contribute to why Oxford is such a popular destination:

Historical attractions

  1. Christ Church

    Located in the heart of Oxford, Christ Church is one of the city’s most popular destinations. After purchasing tickets headset devices that provided a detailed audio tour of the property that covered the history, cultural significance, and other fun facts about each location. Luckily, we arrived early enough that not too many tourists crowded the area, allowing us to take our time. The architecture was grand and enchanting, appearing almost dream-like in the late morning sunlight. The dining hall, with its high ceilings and wood-paneled walls, was particularly exciting for me, as it was a filming location in the Harry Potter motion pictures. The tall, stained glass windows (one of which depicts Lewis Carroll, the author of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland), gothic interior design, ancient masonry, and historical oil paintings certainly contribute to the room’s magical atmosphere– I could not think of a better place to bring Hogwarts to life!  After leaving the dining hall, we walked through the large courtyard, where the grass was vibrant as ever in such sunny weather. Before leaving Christ Church, we explored the blooming gardens and took photos to remember our visit.
  2. Stonehenge

    Located about 90 minutes from Oxford, Stonehenge (bottom right) is a historical landmark that started to be built around 3000 BCE. Though the reasons for why the landmark was built are not completely known, it is surrounded with burial mounds and its stones are arranged in a way that captures the summer and winter solstices. Originating from hundreds of miles away from where they were placed, the stones weighed around 25 tons, meaning their transportation to the site was likely an extremely strenuous task, given the limited technology of the time.
  3. Blenheim Palace

    Blenheim Palace is a beautiful 18th-century country house that is only a 30-minute commute from Oxford. The estate’s large pond with tree-covered islands and hundreds of avian inhabitants appears as if it came straight out of a Monet painting. The rooms within the palace each seem to have their own theme, like the room I photographed (see bottom right), with its red walls, gold accents, and artfully-curated furniture to compliment the rug and paintings. The building had an interesting U-shaped layout with beautiful balconies that overlooked the lush landscape that surrounds the palace. Additionally, there was a room dedicated to highlighting the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, a prominent figure of modern British history. 

Nature and landscape attractions

  1. River Thames path
    The River Thames is located just northeast of the main part of Oxford. Lush, green, and by the water, this path is a beautiful place to take a stroll and view the horses (see top right photo). Past the bridge (see top left and top middle photos), you can visit restaurants or the St. Margaret of Antioch church if you keep walking down the path. The church’s well is said to have performed healing miracles during Medieval times, and is also referenced in Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland as the “treacle well”.
  2. Oxford Botanic Garden
    Located in Oxford’s city centre, the Oxford Botanic Garden is a quiet and beautiful place to escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. This garden is said to have inspired the garden that Alice finds in Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, and after visiting, I completely understand why. The garden is full of colorful flowers (see bottom left photo) that smell amazing during late spring, fountains that provide calming background noise, and greenhouses full of exciting plants from other parts of the world. To pay homage to Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, there is a statue of the Cheshire Cat (see bottom middle photo) hidden in one of the garden’s trees.

Activities

Though attractions are always great to visit, Oxford also has plenty of activities that are more involved. Here are some of the outdoor, cultural and academic, and nightlife activities that Oxford has to offer:

Outdoor activities

  • Punting on the River Cherwell
  • Bike tours
  • River Thames Boating (see bottom left photo)

Cultural and academic activities

  • Art and artifacts: Ashmolean museum
    • Honorable mention: Pitt Rivers museum (see bottom right photo)
  • Performance arts: Evensong
  • Filming locations: Harry Potter (see top left photo in Attractions), Saltburn (2023), Before Sunrise (1995), Endeavour (2012), Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again (2018), and more!

Nightlife

  • Historical bar: Turf Tavern (see top left photo)
    • Honorable mention: King’s Arms
  • Contemporary bar: Cozy Club (see bottom middle photo), for sophisticated vibe reminiscent of the prohibition
    • Honorable mention: O’Niell’s for karaoke and dancing
  • Nightclubs: Plush (see top middle photo)
    • Honorable mention: Hank’s (see top right photo)

Food and drink

Meals

  • Breakfast: GAIL’s Bakery (see left photo)
    • Honorable mention: Colombia Coffee Roasters
  • Lunch: Parsonage Grill (see middle photo)
    • Honorable mention: LB’s Lebanese Cuisine
  • Dinner: Spice Lounge (see right photo)
    • Honorable mention: New Dancing Dragon Bar & Restaurant (see bottom left photo)

Drinks, snacks, and sweet treats

  • Drinks: the Medley (on the River Thames)
  • Snacks: Gloucester Green Outdoor Market
    • Honorable mention: Marks & Spencer
  • Sweet treats: Ben’s Cookies (see bottom left photo)
    • Honorable mention: Temptations Dessert Lounge

Closing thoughts

Hopefully, this guide will prove to be helpful for anyone thinking of visiting the city of dreaming spires. I have had a wonderful time in this city. I think out of everything, I had the most fun making new friends, going on adventures with them, and making countless positive memories with them. Academically, I learned so much about British literature from my Literature of Place class and I also learned so much about culture and religion from my Eastern Religions class. I also learned so much about British culture, from saying “queuing” instead of “lining up”, to the bar and restaurant scene, to the fashion, and although I am returning to the United States this week, I will always be influenced by my time here. More than anything, though, this trip has taught me to put myself out there, to seize the day, and to observe and participate in how the locals live for a more authentic experience. As Anthony Bourdain said, “be a traveler, not a tourist”. Rather than remaining in the comfort zone and doing what’s trendy or popular in back at home, I encourage prospective visitors engage with locals and small businesses at Oxford to see what makes it so great.

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